If someone asked me to describe Newfoundland in one word, I’d say easy. I know that doesn’t sound particularly exciting, but after ten days exploring the province, it felt like the perfect word. We never fought crowds, never stressed about reservations, and never felt rushed. Everything just seemed to fall into place. It was easy to get there, easy to get around, and 100% easy to fall in love with this beautiful, big province.

The scenery is spectacular. The fish & seafood is every bit as good as you’ve heard, and the colourful fishing villages somehow look even better in person than they do in photos.

The conversations & the knowledge came from first-hand experience: The waitress who told us what life is really like in Trout River (her favourite part about working at the seafood factory was dealing with the wild crabs!). The whale tour captain who showed us how his family cooks fresh capelin (in salt pork fat in case you are wondering. TIP: bring a ziplock bag with you on a whale tour. You never know what you’re gonna get).

The locals who handed our boys fishing rods because they noticed them watching the water. The shop owners who wanted to know where we were from before insisting we visit their favourite restaurant down the road.

As chefs, we planned a lot of this trip around food (as we plan all our vacations around food!)). We wanted fresh cod, seafood chowder, lobster rolls, roadside fry shacks, bakeries, breweries, and anything else the province had to offer. Colby was on a mission to visit as many local butcher shops as possible, while our boys were far more interested in whales, puffins, hiking trails, and whether they’d have another chance to fish.

By the time we flew home from Deer Lake ten days later, we all agreed on one thing. Newfoundland needs to be on everyone’s travel list.

If you’re thinking about making the trip yourself, I hope this guide helps you experience some of the same places that made us fall in love with this incredible province.

Before You Go

One of the best decisions we made was flying into St. John’s and home from Deer Lake. It allowed us to drive across the province without ever retracing our steps, and every few days it felt like we were discovering a completely different part of Newfoundland. If your schedule allows, I’d recommend doing the same.

We spent ten days exploring, and while it gave us enough time to experience both St. John’s and Gros Morne National Park, we still left feeling like we’d barely scratched the surface. You could easily spend four or five days in either region alone. If you only have a week, I’d choose one area rather than trying to rush across the island.

We travelled in late June and early July, which turned out to be a great time to visit. The days were comfortable for hiking, the evenings cooled off enough for sweaters (and even toques around the fire!) and we experienced a little bit of everything weather-wise. Newfoundland has a reputation for changing conditions quickly, so packing layers is one piece of advice I’d happily pass along.

Another tip? Book your rental car early. You’ll absolutely want one. Some of our favourite memories came from pulling over at places we hadn’t planned to visit. A tiny roadside bakery. A scenic lookout that wasn’t on our itinerary. Mary Brown’s Fried Chicken (a Newfoundland treasure!). A handwritten sign advertising fresh fish and chips. Newfoundland rewards curiosity, and having your own vehicle gives you the freedom to stop whenever something catches your eye. In 10 days we never saw one speed trap or police car. Only a lot of ‘watch for moose’ signs with a monthly death toll! Let’s just say that kept our speed in check.

One thing we hadn’t anticipated was just how relaxed the driving would be. Coming from southern Ontario, we kept waiting for traffic that never appeared. Parking was easy, the roads were quiet, and even longer driving days felt enjoyable because there was always another beautiful stretch of coastline around the next corner. I’ve explained it like this: if you’ve driven through Algonquin park, or the Muskokas, multiply that by about 100!

More than anything, though, I’d encourage you to leave room in your itinerary for conversations. Some of our favourite restaurants, hidden beaches, and unexpected experiences came from simply asking a local where they’d go if they had one afternoon to spend. True story: we were just about to hop in our car when a truck pulled up, noticed the two boys, and said hey, just about a minute down the road you’ll find a small beach and the boys can catch fish with their bare hands. Every recommendation seemed to lead us somewhere even better.

Recreational cod fishing is a way of life in Newfoundland, and during the season, everyone, locals and visitors alike, can keep up to five cod per person per day for
their own table.

Days 1–3: Exploring St. John’s

We based ourselves in an Airbnb (DM me if you want the link–a 3 bedroom row house we could have moved into!) within walking distance of downtown St. John’s, and I wouldn’t change a thing. Being able to wander through the city without worrying about parking meant we could explore at our own pace, duck into shops whenever something caught our eye, and stop for coffee or a snack without feeling like we had to stick to a schedule.

St. John’s is one of those cities that’s easy to settle into. The colourful row houses climbing the hillsides are exactly what you’ve seen in photographs, but what surprised me was how lived-in the city feels. It isn’t just a tourist destination. It’s a working city with neighbourhood cafés, local bookstores, music shops, pubs, and restaurants tucked around almost every corner. We found ourselves wandering Water Street with no particular destination in mind, popping into Fred’s Records to browse Newfoundland musicians, checking out a comic book shop with the boys, and eventually finding the perfect Newfoundland sweatshirt at Salt Company.

As chefs, our sightseeing almost always revolves around food, and before we’d even left Ontario one restaurant had been recommended to us more than any other: The Duke of Duckworth.

It didn’t matter whether we were reading travel blogs or chatting with people who had visited Newfoundland before us. Everyone seemed to have the same answer when we asked where to find the best fish and chips. Here’s how to know you’re in the right spot: Find an alleyway off of Water street. Go up the stairs to the burgundy sign. Walk in and say, there’s no way this is it. Don’t look for it on Instagram. And now order the fish & chips! But don’t go too late. Kitchen closes at 8:30 and NO KIDS after that time either!

I ordered the fish with a Greek salad because after a couple of days of travel I was craving something green (although still stole a few fries from the kids), while Colby stayed with the classic fish and chips. When our server casually mentioned that the cod had been caught that morning, I might have shed a little tear. If you’ve travelled with me before, you know, usually once or twice a trip, a meal is tear-worthy.

As chefs, that’s the kind of thing that never gets old. You spend your career talking about fresh ingredients, and then suddenly you’re sitting in a cozy pub in downtown St. John’s eating fish that was swimming in the Atlantic only a few hours earlier.

The batter was beautifully crisp, the cod was sweet and flaky, and the portion was generous without feeling heavy. We enjoyed it so much that we found ourselves back there later in the trip for another meal, which probably tells you everything you need to know.

The next morning started with breakfast at The Bagel Cafe, and despite the name, don’t expect a little café with a handful of bagels behind the counter. This place feels like an institution. The menu is enormous, offering everything from hearty breakfasts (including toutons) to seafood dishes, and it was packed with locals when we arrived. There was a lineup but it went quickly. I ordered the Lobster Benedict because if you’re going to eat lobster for breakfast, Newfoundland seems like the right place to do it.

It turned out to be the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploring.

A Beach Boil-Up and Shelby’s Lasting Influence

One of our favourite experiences during our time in St. John’s had nothing to do with restaurants at all. About an hour outside the city, we joined Shelby from Wildera for a traditional beach boil-up. We sat beside a fire overlooking the Atlantic while fresh mussels steamed over the flames, homemade tea cakes appeared from baskets, and stories about Newfoundland traditions were shared as naturally as if we’d been invited to a family gathering.

We loved the simplicity of it. No fancy equipment. No complicated techniques. Just beautiful ingredients, cooked over a fire, in one of the most spectacular settings imaginable. The mussels were truly the best we’d ever had: big, plump and bright orange. We learned from Shelby to sprinkle a little vinegar on the mussels before eating. Delicious! It was one of those experiences that reminded us why food is so often tied to our strongest travel memories. Shelby taught us about so many things we could eat from the forest, and the best seaweed to eat from the ocean. From then on our kids would reference Shelby often: on hikes they’d grab a leaf and just start snacking. We joked she may not have been impressed with our Mary Browns fried chicken lunch!

If you’re planning your own trip, I’d honestly build part of your itinerary around it. When we travelled, Wildera offered Beach Boil ups on Mondays and Wednesdays.

Overall, this was a magical experience that we will never forget! There aren’t many times where you can cook and dine on a rocky beach overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.

Signal Hill, Ice Cream, and One of the Best Food Tours We’ve Ever Taken

Our second full day in St. John’s started with a stop at Battery Café before heading up to Signal Hill. If you’re anything like me, vacations have a funny way of justifying pastries or sandwiches for breakfast because, well…you’re on vacation. The café is tucked into The Battery, one of the oldest neighbourhoods in St. John’s, and it’s well worth seeking out before you begin the climb. We grabbed coffee, breakfast sandwiches and cookies.

From there we made our way up Signal Hill with the guidance of an old friend that we looked up while we were there. It was great to have a guide to march us up through a hilly neighbourhood to the top of the hill. Side note: you can take a bus to the top!

Most people visit for the view, and rightly so. Standing at the top, looking out over the Atlantic, it’s easy to understand why this place has played such an important role in Newfoundland’s history. The cliffs are dramatic, the harbour stretches out below you, and on a clear day you can see forever. It felt like we were standing at the end of the earth.

Aside from the view, it was the journey itself: watching our boys build little inukshuks along the trail, chit chats as we hiked and, for me, dipping my head into a small, cold stream to cool off! Those are the moments that never make the travel brochures 🙂

One thing that surprised us was just how hot the hike became! We had packed sweaters, assuming Newfoundland would be cool all the time, but by the time we reached the top we were definitely looking for something cold. Thankfully there was ice cream waiting nearby on our way down and we would have paid anything for it!

We also made a friend at the top…see pic below…apparently this furry friend is up at the top of the hill almost everyday for a good brush and some photo ops with tourists!

Kirstie’s Tip

Even if you’re visiting in June or July, pack layers. Newfoundland weather changes quickly, but don’t underestimate the sun when you’re hiking. Bring water and wear comfortable shoes. Signal Hill is absolutely worth exploring properly. And when we went, it happened to be the hottest day St. John’s had ever experienced, no ocean breeze in sight! But the next day could have been a completely different experience.

That afternoon we joined a food tour with St. John’s Walking Tours, and, no surprise, it ended up being one of our favourite activities in the city. We’ve taken food tours in other places before, but this one stood out because it felt less like a scripted tour and more like spending an afternoon with a local friend who genuinely loves where they live.

Our guide, Mackenzie, had a way of mixing history with food that kept everyone engaged, and every stop added another piece to the story of Newfoundland. Instead of simply telling us what to eat, she explained why certain dishes became part of the local culture, how communities relied on the ocean, and why food here is still so deeply connected to the people who produce it. From the original ‘flaky’ story to moose burgers & toutons, this afternoon was extremely delicious!

We honestly got more than what we bargained for: learning about the Coke vs. Pepsi battle in Newfoundland. How Mackenzie’s grandmother has both a Newfoundland passport and a Canadian passport. How moose meat is gifted at Christmas. How blueberries in Newfoundland are more nutrient-dense than anywhere else in the world. The fact that Mackenzie has 75 first cousins, so dating can be tricky lol! All said, this was more than just a food tour. Lastly, we learned the all-important motto: “fish is cod and cod is fish.” So if you want to fit in, don’t ask ‘what kind of fish is this?’.

Super fun fact: in order to graduate high school in Newfoundland you need to know
how to cook a meal, play a musical instrument and know how to quilt!

Chef’s Tip: I highly recommend taking a tour at the beginning of any vacation. You get the lay of the land, learn where to eat and feel much more comfortable in the city you’re in.

Where we at on our tour:

• Rocket Cafe for Rocket’s Fabulous Flaky (not to be missed!)
• The Celtic Hearth for Moose Burgers (Charlie’s favourite)
• The Duke of Duckworth for Fish, Chips & Stuffing!
• We had fish cakes at another pub made from salt cod and served with mustard pickles. Delicious, but I can’t recall the name!
• We finished the tour with trip to an ice cream shop!

It’s also impossible to leave a food tour hungry.

A Quick Word About Seafood Prices, and prices in general.

Before our trip, I had this picture in my mind that lobster, oysters, and fresh fish would be inexpensive because, well…you’re surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean. Not exactly. You can still expect to pay $3-$4 an oyster, $18-$24 for fish & chips, and around $25 for a lobster roll (which is snack-size).

The quality is outstanding, but you’re still paying for a premium product. And also helping the local economy get as much out of the short tourist season that it is.

For us, it was worth every penny. When lobster was pulled from the ocean that morning or the cod had been caught only hours before, you quickly stop thinking about the price and simply enjoy the experience.

One restaurant that really drove that point home was The Adelaide Oyster House.

It had a younger, trendier feel than many of the traditional restaurants we’d visited, and although it was a little more upscale, it never felt pretentious. We ordered oysters and fish tacos, and while the tacos were excellent, it was the oysters that stole the show. Fresh, icy cold, beautifully presented, and every bit as good as we’d hoped. If you’re an oyster lover, don’t miss this one.

Ferryland: The Perfect Picnic Spot

On Canada Day we picked up our car and journeyed from St. John’s to Ferryland, about an hour along the famous ‘Irish loop‘ coastal drive. Ferryland feels like you’re on the set of the Hobbit, or for me, like Maria at the beginning of the Sound of Music. Just surrounded by green hills, the ocean, and a majestic lighthouse (if it’s not hiding behind the fog). Click here to know what I am talking about.

If you’ve been researching Newfoundland, you’ve probably come across the famous picnic experience where your lunch is delivered in a basket and you hike out to enjoy it overlooking the ocean. Although this sounds amazing, our kids are just not sandwich kids (they’ll eat oysters and mussels though!) and quite frankly, I was there to eat fish, not a brie sandwich either. So we just crossed our fingers that something else would cross our path and it sure did.

About 3 minutes from the road to the Ferryland lighthouse was the perfect roadside restaurant, the The Squid & Jigger, and I don’t think we could have made a better decision. We ordered crispy cod bites, fresh-cut fries, moose burgers, and seafood chowder. While we waiting, we played a game of pool and felt like a real local! They packed up our food in pop box and sent us on our way.

The cod bites were crispy and tender at the same time. The chowder hot and creamy, with a super soft buttery bun on the side. We’ve never had a more perfect picnic with the Atlantic ocean as our backdrop!

No surprise, one of my favourite meals of the trip was eaten from a cardboard takeout box while sitting on a hillside, trying to find some shelter from the wind, with the
Atlantic stretched out in front of us.

After your picnic, just start walking (it’s about a 15 minute easy hike, or you can pay about $5 each way to hop on an ATV) to get to the lighthouse and start exploring the hills, valleys and the lighthouse itself.  It’s honestly amazing how much time you can spend just walking around the grassy hills and rocky shoreline. Although we didn’t get the lighthouse picnic, I was still able to give their molasses cookies a try!  Good call.    

If you’re visiting St. John’s, don’t skip this drive.

Quidi Vidi: Small Village, Big Personality

Before leaving St. John’s, we also spent time wandering around Quidi Vidi, about an 8 minute drive from downtown St. John’s, knows for it’s amazing brewery!

It’s tiny, picturesque, and somehow manages to feel both historic and alive at the same time.

Of course, no visit is complete without stopping at Mallard Cottage. This is probably where I’ll differ from many travel guides. Mallard Cottage came highly recommended (it had been closed, and re-opened, possibly under different management) and I was genuinely excited to eat there. As chefs, we love restaurants that celebrate local ingredients, and their reputation certainly suggested we’d found one of the province’s culinary highlights.

Our experience, unfortunately, didn’t quite live up to the hype.

They had already run out of the mussels we were hoping to order, the oysters weren’t served particularly cold, and the soup had a scorched flavour that surprised us. Restaurants have off days, and I never like judging a place based on one meal, especially knowing how many moving parts there are behind the scenes. We would never add this to a google review (and almost did not add this section to the blog) however–we know that tomorrow is a different day, and this is not meant to discourage you from going, but to remind you that one experience isn’t the whole story. Some of our favourite meals came from restaurants we almost drove past. Some of the places we anticipated most didn’t quite hit the mark. That’s travel.

And honestly, it’s one of the reasons I always encourage people to ask locals where they eat instead of relying solely on “Top 10” lists.

And so just across the street, we found another local favourite that probably won’t be in any travel guide: Linda’s Bar. 80-something year old Linda still lives in the back, the walls were covered in antique paraphernalia including those little spoons which reminded me of my gramma, musical instruments and hockey jerseys from all over. The kids had a blast playing darts and chatting with the locals, while we struck up a conversation with a family from Listowel and discovered we had a few connections back home.

Quidi Vidi Brewery became our afternoon stop, and I still think about the Margarita Cerveza, lightly soured, incredibly refreshing and easy to drink. We continued to find in all over the island and were thrilled. I’ll miss that beer!

Sounds like another excuse to head back to Newfoundland.

The Little Stops We Still Talk About

When I think back to our four days in St. John’s, it’s funny how many little moments stand out just as much as the major attractions. Watching Colby browse through Halliday’s Meat Market while chatting with the butcher about local cuts of meat.

The boys discovering the old gum ball machine inside the shop and celebrating because one blue gum ball earned them a free bottle of pop. Finding Newfoundland music at Fred’s Records.

Late-night slices from Venice Pizza that reminded us a little of Pepi’s back home.

Stopping at Rocket Bakery before leaving town and discovering what may have been the flakiest pastry I’ve ever eaten. We ordered breakfast sandwiches on croissants, which were excellent, but if you’re standing at the counter wondering what to add, order a Flaky.

As we packed up the car the next morning and pointed it toward Bonavista, we already felt like we’d seen so much. Little did we know, Newfoundland was only getting started.

On the Road to Bonavista (And Why You Should Absolutely Stop at Mary Brown’s)

After four days in St.John’s we started our journey to Gros Morne, but with a 2-day pit stop in Bonavista area (Port Rexton was where we actually stayed) to discover puffins, whales and whatever else crossed our path. From St.John’s to Gros Morne it’s a good 8+ hours, so this was a good way to break up the trip.

Some people have to stop for coffee every two hours. Some always pack a cooler full of snacks. Apparently, our Newfoundland tradition became stopping at Mary Brown’s Fried Chicken whenever the opportunity presented itself.

If you’ve never heard of Mary Brown’s, you’re about to. Founded right here in Newfoundland, it’s a bit of a local institution, and before we left home, more than one person told us we had to try it. It was absolutely delicious. We ordered one of the family boxes, which turned out to be surprisingly affordable, and it easily fed all four of us. The chicken was fresh and ‘homemade tasting’, crispy, juicy, and exactly what you want before settling in for a few hours on the road. Sometimes vacation meals are about chasing the best seafood in the province. Sometimes they’re about grabbing a bucket of fried chicken before the next adventure.

One thing we also appreciated during our drive across Newfoundland was how easy it was to find clean washrooms, little convenience stores, and places to stretch your legs. Long driving days can feel exhausting, especially with kids, but this route never did. Every stop seemed to reveal another beautiful harbour, another tiny community, or another excuse to pull over and take a picture. If you see a sign for Fresh Cut Fries, or Fish & Chips, pull over!

The drive itself quickly became part of the vacation.

Bonavista and Port Rexton

As beautiful as St. John’s had been, Bonavista felt completely different. TINY towns, small populations and big skies.

It also felt like we’d stepped into the Newfoundland we’d imagined before arriving. Fishing communities, colourful stages built along the shoreline, weathered boats tied up in sheltered harbours, and houses that looked like they’d been watching the Atlantic for generations.

Our very first stop was straight to the shore of Elliston, where we actually KNEW 3 PEOPLE out of population of 300. Friends in Ontario simply said ‘look for the big yellow house’ and come say hi. And so we did, and we got the most amazing ‘insider information’ on where best to see the puffins.

In general, there’s not a lot of signage in Newfoundland. We learned there’s not a lot of tourism dollars to use for that. So you just need to get out, walk around, ask people where to find things.

Sea of Whales: The Experience We’ll Be Talking About for Years

Our whale watching excursion was simply so much more than that. We booked with Sea of Whales Adventures, and Captain Kris made the experience unforgettable before we’d even left the dock. We had heard from some friends who had done a whale watching expedition that they got quite sea sick, and honestly I would have been concerned on a bigger, slower boat, but the speed and smoothness of a zodiac is a whole different story. If you’re fine on the highway, you’ll be fine on a zodiac.

He was funny, knowledgeable, passionate about Newfoundland, and completely at ease out on the water. You could tell he genuinely loved what he did, and that enthusiasm was contagious. Everyone was his cousin, so we got some hot tips on where to find whales.

And boy did w see whales! 6 in total, and he endearingly named two of them after the boys. We unexpectedly saw dolphins and then something happened that none of us expected.  

Because it was capelin season (whales eating tonnes and tonnes per day, don’t ask me for an exact amount, they’re whales, it’s alot) the capelin were in abundance.  

If you’ve never heard of capelin before, they’re a small forage fish that come ashore in enormous numbers every summer to spawn. They’re an important part of Newfoundland’s ecosystem and culture, feeding everything from whales to seabirds, and for a brief period each year they become part of daily life along the coast.   

Captain Kris spotted a huge school alongside the boat and without missing a beat, he scooped his net into the water and lifted what looked like half the ocean onto the deck in less than a minute.   

“If anybody has a Ziplock bag, take some for dinner!” So I quickly sacrificed a zip-top bag keeping a camera safe and filled it to the brim with fresh capelin.  And it didn’t stop there.   Captain Kris shared exactly how his family prepares capelin at home.   

1. Start by frying salt pork until it’s crisp (ask the gals at the store for a small piece of salt pork, cut it, fry it, eat the scrunchions) 
2. Lightly dust the capelin with flour and salt & pepper. 
3. Cook the capelin in the rendered fat.
4. Eat right away with a little more salt, lemon if you’ve got it.  

Thankfully we had a few staples at our Air BnB (TIP: stay at Air BnB’s as much as possible for this very reason).

If there’s one piece of advice we’d give anyone planning a trip to Newfoundland, it’s this: stay in locally owned Airbnbs whenever you can. You’ll have more space to spread out, a kitchen for cooking the incredible local seafood you’ll inevitably buy, and you’ll experience the province the way locals do. We found ourselves slowing down, sipping coffee on the deck, chatting with hosts, and feeling like we belonged instead of simply passing through.

Growing up, we often had smelts, just small, mild little fish where the spine literally falls out after cooking them.  The capelin were very similar and they were so, so good. 

Kirstie’s Tip

Throw a large Ziplock bag into your suitcase before your trip. You never know when a Newfoundland local might send you home with dinner.

Some of the best meals begin with someone saying, “Here’s how my family has always done it.”Those are recipes worth keeping.

Two Whales Café: Worth the Wait

Heading deeper into Newfoundland, but first: Two Whales Coffee Shop.

I’ll be honest. The coffee took a while.  Long enough that we started wondering whether we’d made the right decision to stop. Then the apple cake arrived.  

If you know me, I get pretty excited about the perfect coffee cake.  And this was it.  It was warm, comforting, and exactly the kind of baking you hope to discover while travelling through small communities. We enjoyed it so much that before leaving, we ordered an enormous extra slice and tucked it into the car for breakfast the next morning.

I don’t know if anyone has ever regretted buying too much homemade cake. 

As we packed the car one more time and pointed it west toward Gros Morne National Park, we all had the same feeling–we couldn’t imagine the scenery getting any more beautiful.  

We were wrong.

Days 7–10: Gros Morne National Park

If St.John’s  introduced us to Newfoundland, Gros Morne made us fall in love with it.

People had told us it would be beautiful. We’d seen the photos. We’d watched the videos (YouTube travel videos are my relaxation).   Like most travellers these days, we’d probably spent far too much time scrolling Instagram before we ever packed a suitcase.

But none of it prepared us for seeing it in person.  The scale is impossible to appreciate until you’re standing there or driving through it.   The mountains seem to rise straight out of the ocean. The roads twist around dramatic coastlines, and every few kilometres there’s another lookout, another trail, or another tiny fishing community that makes you reach for your camera.

Google Maps might tell you a drive takes an hour, but plan on two as you’re going to stop.

I think if I were to go back to Newfoundland (which is likely), and this is what I’ve been telling people: just fly into Deer Lake, the airport is no bigger than a convenience store, drive about an hour to Gros Morne, book a cabin, explore for 4-5 days and come home.  Easy.  

Off the Hook…and Newfoundland’s Love Affair with Stuffing

By this point in the trip we’d settled into a routine. Drive for a while. See something beautiful. Pull over. Repeat. And then pull over real fast when you see a sign for fish & chips.   We found ourselves at Off the Hook for lunch just before entering the park.   Of course, we ordered the fish and chips. At this point I don’t think there was any turning back. Every restaurant seemed to have its own version, and honestly, we never had a bad piece of fish anywhere in Newfoundland.

But lunch also introduced us to something we’d never heard of before. A Big Mess. Picture a pile of fresh-cut fries covered with gravy, cheese, ground beef…and stuffing.

The box must have weighed 5 pounds.   But overall, it worked!  Friggin delicious as they say.  

First Impressions of Rocky Harbour

The excitement of our trip kept building as we were meeting two other families in Gros Morne!
Our ‘camping friends’ quickly learned about our trip and it didn’t take much convincing for them to join us on this last leg of our trip.  The hiking experiences alone are a mecca for anyone who loves to get out into nature.  

Likely because of accommodation availability, we decided to divide our four nights in Gros Morne into two different places, about an hour apart.   Rocky Harbour became our home for the first two nights, where we stayed at the cute Ocean Atlantic Cottages with full kitchens, complete with a fire pit for fun nights.  Molly, the endearing owner, didn’t even take a dime from us until we arrived!  

There’s something special about reconnecting with friends while you’re all on vacation. The pace immediately slows down. Nobody’s watching the clock, everyone’s happy to sit outside a little longer, and dinner plans become a group conversation instead of a schedule.  The kids meshed together and found a rhythm, running around the property, exploring during hikes and generally drinking as much pop as they wanted.  

We had two main goals in Rocky Harbour: Lobster Rolls & The Western Brook
Pond Boat Tour. Neither are to be missed.

The Lobster Roll Mission Continues

Lobster rolls were high on my list, and while in St.John’s we learned that the original chef of the Mallard cottage packed up and opened a Lobster Roll food truck in Gros Morne National Park.  When we landed in Rocky Harbour our friends told us it was about 5 minutes from our cabin.  I gotta say, that sums up Newfoundland–everything you could ever dream of is within arms reach.  So before dinner (yes, before dinner plans) we headed to Jeremy Charles’ King Lobster food truck.

I’ll warn you right now.  Don’t expect a bargain.  At around $25 per roll,  it’s definitely more of a snack than a meal.  But I also knew I’d regret leaving Newfoundland without trying it.

What immediately stood out was the simplicity. No mayonnaise. Just warm butter coating sweet chunks of lobster on a soft, slightly toasted bun.  As chefs, we talk all the time about knowing when to leave ingredients alone and this was definitely one of those moments.   The biggest compliment? Miles immediately asked for a second one. I can’t blame him. I could have easily polished off three myself.

The place had atmosphere though.   While I quietly enjoyed every bite at picnic table, the kids played bean bag toss and explored the shoreline.

The Fish Were Great. The People Were Better.

After dinner one evening we wandered down toward the water in Rocky Harbour, where the boys watched locals pulling mackerel out of the harbour one after another.

Within minutes someone walked over. “Want to borrow a rod?” That’s Newfoundland for you.   No hesitation. Just someone noticing some kids who wanted to fish.

Before long they were casting lines into the harbour, the mackerel practically jumping onto the shore.  People weren’t just friendly.  They included you.  Whether it was sharing fishing gear, recommending a favourite restaurant, or teaching us how to cook capelin, there was a generosity that seemed woven into everyday life.

Western Brook Pond

Despite its name, Western Brook Pond is a landlocked freshwater fjord, carved by glaciers during the last Ice Age. After the glaciers retreated nearly 10,000 years ago, the saltwater was cut off from the ocean and replaced by some of the purest freshwater in North America. Today, sheer cliffs rise more than 2,000 feet above the water, with countless waterfalls tumbling down the rock face.

Hot Tip: start to stand in line early before your scheduled departure. If the weather is iffy (it was pretty rainy the day we went) you want to get a seat on the inside of the boat. Doesn’t mean you can’t walk around, but it was nice to have an inside seat as a ‘home base’.

It’s one of Newfoundland’s most iconic landscapes, and for
good reason.   We booked this tour very early on in our
planning process to be sure not to miss it.   

As the boat winds its way through the fjord, the funny and entertaining crew shares stories about the geology, wildlife, and the people who once lived and worked in this rugged corner of Gros Morne National Park. Somewhere along the way, the microphones are traded for music. Before long, the crew is playing traditional Newfoundland songs, passengers are clapping along, and the whole boat feels more like a kitchen party than a sightseeing tour.

Charlie was handed a pair of spoons and absolutely owned it. He jumped right in, keeping the beat while the entire boat cheered him on. 

There are very few places where we find ourselves putting the camera down simply because no photograph can capture what we’re seeing.   Western Brook Pond was one of them.

The cliffs are bigger. The waterfalls are taller. The silence is quieter. Standing there in the middle of a glacier-carved fjord with some of our closest friends made the whole experience feel even more magical.

The Moose Burger Stop We Almost Missed

On the drive back from Western Brook Pond you’ll notice a simple roadside sign advertising Moose Burgers and Lobster Rolls.

That’s all it said so we peeled over and piled in.   Zero fancy branding and no polished marketing (I have no link or website for you, it’s just on the coastal highway between Rocky Harbour and the Western Brook Pond boat tour).  

Although I was REALLY TEMPTED to get another lobster roll, I simply asked the guy working the place what I should get, and he honestly responded that ‘he just always get’s the fish & chips’.  And so I did.  It’s always my favourite too.  

He wasn’t wrong.

While we waited, we wandered through the little gift shop attached to the restaurant and found some of our favourite souvenirs of the trip for real cheap.  Meanwhile, one of our boys continued what had quietly become his own culinary challenge.

By the end of the trip, I think he’d eaten four moose burgers.  Maybe five.

Moving to Woody Point

If I could change one thing about our itinerary, it would be this: I’d spend more time in Woody Point.

We moved into Middle Brook Cottages, and within a few hours I was wondering why we hadn’t booked the entire Gros Morne portion of our trip there instead.

The cottages sit beside a little brook that quickly became our favourite place to cool off after a day of hiking. Every afternoon we’d wander back from the trails, kick off our hiking shoes, and plunge our feet into the icy water.

The village itself was small, charming, friendly and had everything we needed (I will stress again though–don’t expect a lot of grocery options like fresh lettuce & produce!) 

Hot Tip: stock up on bread, peanut butter & jam and make a ‘sleeve’ of sandwiches, extremely welcome during any long hike!  

Unlike some tourist destinations where restaurants are booked solid and every patio has a lineup, Woody Point felt wonderfully relaxed. One afternoon our group of TEN walked into a waterfront restaurant expecting a wait.  Instead, we were immediately shown to a patio table overlooking the bay.  Fresh halibut. Fish burgers. Hand-cut fries.  Cold local beer.  And the most beautiful gift shop filled with homemade quilts.  Just one more reason to go back, with cash in hand for a new quilt!  

The Tablelands and Green Gardens

We had two days left in Gros Morne and so slotted in two polar opposite hikes each day.  One is not better than the other, and I highly recommend you do both.   

Every Newfoundland itinerary will tell you to visit the Tablelands.  They’re right.  It feels like you’re hiking across another planet.   The orange and rust-coloured landscape is unlike anywhere else in Canada.  The wind was pretty extreme but it did not take away from the experience.   The hike was actually fairly easy overall, clocking in just about 90 minutes there and back, and with a built-in pathway, there’s no way of getting lost.   The boys pretty much parcoured the entire route, jumping from rock to rock.  

As incredible as the Tablelands were, though, the Green Gardens Trail is pretty magical.  It’s definitely longer (our group completed it in about 4 hours, there and back), it’s more challenging, but doable.  

And it’s absolutely worth every step.

The trail begins in what feels like the tablelands, fairly desert-like, leaving you to wonder why it’s called Green Gardens.  And then it gradually opens up to sweeping ocean views, dramatic cliffs, waterfalls, and wide grassy meadows where sheep quietly graze as though they’ve wandered out of a painting.

No phenomenal food to report here, see tip above about bringing a sleeve of PB&J’s! At the halfway point (which happened to be down steep steps to the ocean) they were a welcome lunch.   Bring lots of water too.   

Weather-wise this hike was fairly hot on the trail, but windy and cool by the water’s edge.  A fair amount of incline, where we were able to cool down by dipping our heads under little waterfalls along the way.  If you’re comfortable with a longer hike, this would be my recommendation over almost anything else we did in Gros Morne.

It’s one of the most beautiful hikes our group has ever experienced.

Our Last Evening in Newfoundland

There are certain meals you’ll always remember.

Not necessarily because they were the most elaborate or the most expensive, but because everything came together at exactly the right moment.  For us, that meal happened on our final evening.

We left Woody Point and made the beautiful drive to Trout River, a tiny fishing community tucked along the coast about half an hour away.   If you’ve ever driven through Algonquin Park or Muskoka and found yourself pulling over every few minutes because the scenery keeps getting better, imagine that…and then turn it up another notch.

The road winds through Gros Morne National Park, with mountains rising in every direction and the ocean appearing just when you think the view can’t possibly get any better. We drove with the windows down, taking our time, and I remember thinking that this was exactly why we’d chosen a road trip instead of rushing from place to place.

Sometimes getting there really is half the experience.

Our destination was The Seaside Restaurant.   My friend offered to book us into the restaurant months ago, and sometimes it’s nice when plans are made for you, so I was thrilled.  I didn’t even look at the website, just knew the plans were made.  Little did I know we were heading to a place that was legendary.   

No fancy tables and chairs or upscale atmosphere.  At the entrance jars of jam were for sale amongst the wooden tables and chairs that reminded me of my parents dining set from the 80’s.   But as we ascended the staircase to our table overlooking the ocean, the walls were lined with photos of the owners with some famous people, including Gord Downie, and  before we’d even ordered, we knew we’d made the right choice. 

Two of my friends ordered the whole steamed lobster.  I was about to do the same when our lovely waitress said sorry, that’s all of them, although she said, just let me double check.  She came back and announced ‘oh, they just dropped off some more’!!   Decision made.  I ordered a whole steamed lobster because I couldn’t leave Newfoundland without one.   Around the table there were bowls of seafood chowder, crab legs, fish and chips, and those incredible homemade buns that deserve a paragraph of their own.

If you’ve ever wondered why good bread can make a meal memorable, these buns are your answer. Warm, soft, and perfect with a generous swipe of butter, they disappeared almost as quickly as they arrived.  And at no extra cost like you sometimes find at fancier joints.  

We ended up chatting with our server for quite a while about what it’s like to live in Trout River year-round. We asked questions about the winters, the fishing industry, tourism, and what life is like in such a small community. She answered every question with the kind of warmth we’d experienced throughout the entire trip. Dealing with the crabs was her favourite thing to do at the processing plant.  Buying groceries is often a full day ordeal, driving far and stocking up.  Bakeapple jam (also known as cloudberry and has nothing to do with apples) is her favourite.   

After sunset pictures after dinner, we headed back to our cabins for one last night around the fire.  

Sixteen Things We Learned About Travelling Newfoundland

Looking back, there are a few things we’d tell anyone planning the same trip.

1. Fly into St. John’s and home from Deer Lake if you can.
2. Book your rental car as early as possible.
3. Pack layers, even in July.
4. Build extra time into every driving day because you’ll stop constantly.
5. Speaking of driving: don’t rely on data to get you around. On the highways there is almost zero cell service. Download the map or screenshot it while you’re at wifi. See next tip.
6. Almost all restaurants post their wifi password somewhere as people have learned to rely on it! If you don’t see it, just ask!
7. Trust the little roadside restaurants.
8. Ask locals for recommendations.
9. Throw a large Ziplock bag into your suitcase. You never know when someone will send you home with fresh capelin.
10. Stay in Woody Point if you’re exploring Gros Morne.
11. Hike Green Gardens if you’re comfortable with a longer trail.
12. Order the fish. Every chance you get.
13. Don’t expect seafood to be cheap just because you’re near the ocean.
14. Plan at least one meal in your Airbnb using local ingredients.
15. Leave room in your suitcase for local jam and a few food souvenirs.
16. Accept that you’ll leave with a list of places you still want to see.

Would We Go Back?

Without hesitation. We still haven’t seen icebergs.

We still haven’t had a proper Jiggs dinner.

There are hiking trails we didn’t have time to explore, tiny fishing villages we drove past promising ourselves we’d visit “next time,” and countless restaurants we’d happily return to.

When people ask us whether Newfoundland lived up to the hype, the answer is easy. It exceeded it. Yes, the scenery is every bit as spectacular as the photos suggest. Yes, the fish & seafood is incredible.

But what surprised us most was how relaxed we felt after ten days. There was no rushing from attraction to attraction. No fighting traffic. No wondering whether we were missing out on something else. Instead, we found ourselves slowing down. Talking to people. Taking the scenic route.

Order another piece of cod because, honestly, why wouldn’t you?

By the time we boarded our flight home, we weren’t talking about what we’d seen. We were talking about what we’d come back for.

And isn’t that the sign of a truly great trip?

Planning Your Own Newfoundland Adventure?

If you’ve been thinking about visiting Newfoundland, I hope our family’s experience helps you plan your own adventure. If you discover a roadside restaurant we missed, find the perfect lobster roll, or finally track down that elusive Jiggs dinner, I’d love to hear about it.

Leave a comment below or send us a message. We’re already making a list for our next visit.